This winter I spent a few weeks in South India and Sri Lanka. First, I went to Kerala where I spent some time in the old pilgrimage town of Varkala, famous for its Janardhana Swami Temple and the Hindu Pujas performed on its glorious beach. I went for long walks breathing fresh sea air and watching the spectacular sunsets over the Arabian sea. I also indulged in a few ayurvedic massages which are very affordable in Varkala.
Next, I boarded a train to Ernakulam from where I took the ferry ride across to the islet of Fort Kochi. This historic town was formerly known as Fort Cochin and it was there where the first European fort on Indian soil had been constructed when it had been controlled by the Portuguese East Indies. Fort Kochi was a fishing village in the kingdom of Kochi in the pre-colonial Kerala. Its harbour was frequented by Arabian and Chinese traders for its much-valued spices, such as pepper, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and sandalwood to name a few. From very early on it was a multicultural centre where Hindus, Syrian Christians, Jews and Muslims lived peacefully side by side. The Portuguese arrived in 1498 and thus opened a direct sea route from Europe to India. Later Kochi was taken over for 112 years by the Dutch before it was controlled by the British from 1795 until Indian independence in 1947.
All the different cultures that passed through this place have left their mark in the architecture, such as the colonial churches and some historical residential buildings that lend the place lots of character. The beach promenade is flanked by giant mango trees and provides views of the famous Chinese fishing nets that had been introduced by the Chinese in the early 14th century.
Whilst enjoying the quaint scenery, the coffeeshops, boutiques, antique shops and eateries, my main reason for staying almost two weeks in Fort Kochi was the amazing Kerala Kathakali Center, a true gem for any lover of the Indian traditional performing arts. This small theatre offers a great variety of classes (cooking classes, temple yoga, Kalariyapattu, which is a form of Keralan martial arts, dance classes, and morning meditation sessions with live ragas) and there are live performances every day all year round. I went to one or two different events there every day for the duration of my stay.
The center is managed by Sucheendran, who studied music under the tutelage of his father who also transmitted his deep love for the classical arts of Indian culture. Sucheendran has been a committed staff member of the Kerala Kathakali Center ever since it opened in 1996 and for the past 28 years, he has dedicated his life to the promotion of classical Indian music and culture, especially of his native Kerala. He is a member of the resident team of artists and accompanies the Kathakali show every evening with his ritual chanting.
However, the Center is by no means limited to Kathakali dance but offers a great variety of performances of traditional Keralan art forms, such as Kathakali puppet shows, Nangiar Koothu temple dance or Ottan Thullal dance. These are all highly stylized forms of traditional dances which reenact stories from the Ramayana that are recited in chants. The costumes and the colorful make up are very elaborate, and the intricate mimics of the dancers are of utmost importance – in fact the stories are conveyed through the mimics rather than dance movements, which is why Kathakali is also often described as belonging to the genre of “dance drama”.
There are also performances of Mohiniyattam dance, another classical dance form which originated in Kerala. This dance is performed by women in honour of the Hindu god Vishnu in his incarnation as the enchantress Mohini. According to Hindu mythology, Vishnu took the form of Mohini to distract the demon Bhasmasura while the gods took the elixir of immortality from churning the celestial oceans and thus saved the universe from destruction.
Classical dance forms from other parts of India are also promoted, such as Bharatanatyam, a dance form that originated in Tamil Nadu and has its roots in the temple sculptures of up to 3000 years ago.
During 2023, Nirod Kumar Dehuri, a prominent Odissi dancer and teacher of international renown has become a member of the team of resident artists. Nirod is a highly gifted artist with more than 27 years of experience.
Odissi is a major ancient Indian classical dance that originated in the temples of Odisha in eastern India. Odissi, in its history, was performed predominantly by women, and expressed religious stories and spiritual ideas through songs written and composed by the poets of the state.
It is a great privilege to watch Nirod’s performance. He is also very keen to share his knowledge and skills, teaching students of all ages and backgrounds, short term or long term. He adapts his classes to his students’ personal capabilities and needs so you don’t need to worry about any previous knowledge of dance, but can just enjoy the experience and go with the flow.
There are also performances of Indian classical music on most days, from both North India and South India (the instruments used are the violin, sitar, tabla, mridangam, harmonium and voice).
The Center became my home on my trips to Kerala and I can’t recommend it enough. It is a fabulous resource for anyone wishing to learn more about classical Indian performing arts.
One day I took a ferry back to Ernakulam to see my friends at the Dharani School of Performing Arts, another great place for engaging in long term studies of classical Indian dance. This school was founded by the charismatic Shyamala Surendram, a master danseuse who has committed her life to promoting the arts as a path to self-realisation. She has created a very beautiful space, built in traditional Keralan architecture where she has instructed her numerous national and international students for decades. Some of her students have have since moved on to make their own contributions to Indian culture, such as the talented Brigitta Hegedüs who has become an accomplished danseuse and who runs the Revathi Academy of Dance in Munich, Germany.
After a short trip to Cherai beach and backwaters I left Fort Kochi behind to escape the fierce humid heat that was a lot stronger than usual for the time of the year. I headed for the Western Ghats and spent the next few days in Kumily at the edge of the Periyar Tiger Reserve. Here I passed the days going for walks in the Reserve, taking a boat ride on Lake Periyar, and relaxing on my balcony at the beautiful Kerala House Homestay at the edge of the Reserve. Sometimes the wildlife came remarkably close to the guesthouse. I was able to spot some gaur and an Indian wild boar just behind the house and the monkeys (Nilgiri langurs and macaques) were never far away!
From Kumily I had a couple of adventurous bus rides that took me from the heights of the Western Ghats down into Tamil Nadu and to the temple city of Madurai where I spent an afternoon circambulating the famous Meenakshi Amman temple (Mother Goddess temple) before catching my flight to Sri Lanka the next morning.
